Three menswear designers changing the game
10 Jan 2024
What does it mean to be a menswear designer in 2024? We highlight three creatives championing new forms of masculinity, forging their own narratives and creating excellent fashion.
Steven Stokey Daley
He’s dressed stars such as Harry Styles (if you type in ‘golden’ into Google - you will see thousands of images of Styles wearing S.S Daley), has been featured in countless magazines, and dressed actors (Sir Iain McKellen to name but one) - and in 2022 Stokey Daley won the much coveted and respected LVMH prize which was swiftly followed by an award for Best Emerging Designer by the British Fashion council. And this year, things will only get better for the xx-year-old Liverpudillian designer, it’s safe to say he has fast become one of the industry’s brightest young talents.
Stokey Daley focuses on traditional British wear by adding a deliciously queer twist to classic garments. Collections included iconic pieces such as Aran sweaters, jacquard knits, trench coats, as well as suits featuring pinstripes or a Prince of Wales check. S.S Daley is a brand that observes socio-cultural divides, with designs that provide a fresh take on the urban upper class, working class and agricultural styles. The brand makes garments inspired by art and literature, aimed at men who want a look packed with personality.
For those who won’t make it to Pitti - Stokey Daley will also be showcasing his newest collection in Paris.
Luca Magliano is the founder and creative director of Italian tailoring and knitwear brand Magliano, which was awarded LVMH's Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2023. Magliano founded his eponymous label in 2017, and a year later, his debut collection was showcased at Pitti Uomo.
Born and raised in Bologna, Magliano is known for his luxury garments with a personal angle on Italian elegance informed by his native city's history as an industrial centre and stronghold of leftist politics and counter-culture.
His oversized, gender-fluid designs subvert notions of Italian dandyism, proposing a grungier, more off-beat take on style. Magliano's work is influenced by the concept of the "provincia": peripheral spaces where vernacular language is spoken and magic realism thrives. His designs imbue menswear fundamentals with a dishevelled attitude and thought-provoking storytelling, transforming them into a contemporary, genderless wardrobe.
The announcement of his involvement at this year’s Pitti marks a full-circle moment for Magliano, who made his runway debut at Pitti Uomo in 2018, with a collection titled “Wardrobe for a Man in Love.”
Achilles Ion Gabriel
This year will be a big one for the Finnish designer Ion Gabriel, the 36-year-old shoemaker behind footwear company Camper and its experimental line Camperlab, (where he has worked as creative director over the last four years) is branching out on his own with the launch of his namesake brand which will be shown at this year’s Pitti Uomo.Known for his cool, bold colourful shoes Ion Gabriel has undoubtedly arrived at the right time and with the right experience to embark on this adventure. Backed by two financial partners from his own circle, he is launching a gender-neutral brand of ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes from his studio in Paris.
Achilles Ion Gabriel, who grew up in Lapland, studied footwear at the Häme University of Applied Sciences (HAMK) in Hämeenlinnan, north of Helsinki, before moving to Paris. In 2012, almost immediately after graduating, he launched his first label, dedicated entirely to shoes. However it wasn't long before his collaborations and consultancy work with major brands took over. The designer quickly made a name for himself with his unique creations, working with the likes of Marni to Sunnei, via Courrèges and Marimekko.
In 2019, he launched a new footwear label, Ion. But that same year, he was recruited by Camper to take charge of Camperlab, the experimental line from the Balearic-based shoemaker, which propelled him a year later to Camper's global creative direction. All we can say is - watch this space.